Card grading evaluates a collectible’s physical condition, and some services also authenticate the item. A numerical grade is not a promise of resale value. Start by identifying the exact year, set, card number and variant. Compare the card with known genuine examples and review the grading service’s current submission requirements before paying any fees.
Four condition factors worth checking
Centering
Look at the balance of printed borders on both sides. Designs without conventional borders still have alignment features. Centering tolerance varies by grading service and grade.
Corners
Inspect each corner under good light. Soft corners, tiny bends, whitening or impacts may affect condition. Small defects are easy to miss inside sleeves.
Edges
Inspect edge chips, rough cuts, flaking and dents. Some older manufacturing methods naturally produce uneven edges; a grading company makes its own determination about acceptable manufacture-related flaws.
Surface
Check for scratches, print lines, stains, indentation, creases, ink marks and discoloration. Use a clean workspace and handle cards by the edges. Avoid cleaning methods that might alter the card.
Raw cards versus professionally graded cards
A raw card may be less expensive and easier to inspect out of a slab, but its condition and authenticity are not independently certified. A graded card normally carries a holder and certification number, although counterfeit holders and altered cards remain possible. Check the certification directly with the grading provider and confirm images and description match the card being offered.
Should you submit a card?
Estimate the likely market value of the card in its current condition, the expected value across several plausible grades, grading and shipping fees, insurance, turnaround time and potential downside. A common base card can cost more to grade than its market value. For a rare or historically important card, independent authentication may have value even without a top numerical grade.
Preparing for shipment
Use a clean penny sleeve and an approved semi-rigid holder if your grading company requests one. Follow their latest packaging instructions exactly. Photograph the item and record the declared value before shipping.
Frequently asked questions
Does a PSA 10 always sell for more than a PSA 9?
Often it commands a premium, but demand, population, recent comparable sales and transaction timing matter. There is no guaranteed price difference.
Can an ungraded card be considered mint?
A seller can describe a raw card’s apparent condition, but it does not have a verified numerical grade until a grading service evaluates it.
Are grading companies interchangeable?
No. Standards, labels, fees, turnaround times and buyer demand differ. Compare current terms for each provider.
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